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In this city centred on ancient landmarks, standout neighbourhoods pair exceptional places to stay with their own distinct vibe
Athens is a surprisingly modern city, but its centre of gravity is still the oldest landmark of all: the Acropolis. When deciding where to stay in Athens, proximity to the antiquities is obviously a big draw for first time visitors who would be wise to choose one of the grand hotels in the lively historic centre, a penthouse suite eye level with the Parthenon in Koukaki or romantic neoclassical lodgings in the old town of Plaka.
From the summit of the Acropolis, Athens can seem like a seething, sprawling mass of tightly-packed apartment buildings, but every neighbourhood has its own distinct vibe. If you’re into streetside meze, vintage shopping and late-night bars, check into the Psyrri neighbourhood. For smart café society, designer boutiques and sublime museums, it’s got to be Kolonaki. Sandy beaches, seaside tavernas and sailing trips to nearby islands? Head for one of the swanky resorts that have touched down on the Athens Riviera, where the city meets the sea.
Every hotel in this curated list has been visited by one of our expert reviewers, who are usually hosted on a complimentary basis. They stay for a minimum of one night, test at least one meal and trial other experiences that the hotel might have to offer.
The warren of narrow streets and pedestrian lanes between Syntagma, Monastiraki and Omonia squares has always been the commercial heart of Athens. These days, old-school haberdashery, fabric and flower shops are outnumbered by street food joints, wine bars and boutique hotels. But there are still plenty of local hangouts among touristy landmarks like the changing of the guard (outside Parliament), the Metropolitan cathedral and Monastiraki flea market. Hit Manari Taverna for the juiciest grilled meat, Sushi Mou for an authentic omakase experience using Greek seafood, Ekiben for burgers and vinyl, and Heteroclito for local wines and Levantine Tapas.
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Right below the Acropolis and the shady trails of pine-forested Philopappou Hill, Koukaki still has a real neighbourhood feel. Bordered by the must-see Acropolis Museum and EMST, the edgy contemporary art museum, the mellow streets are a mish-mash of neoclassical, Bauhaus and mid-century modern architecture. Independent designers (like Val Goutsi ceramics, Psit jewellery, and Turquoise fashion) have set up shop in the little storefronts. Gentrification has also brought some funky restaurants (like Gargaretta and Tuk Tuk) and all-day cafés (Lotte, Salute, and Little Tree) that morph into low-key bars at nightfall. From spritzerias (Drupes) to natural wine bars (Materia Prima) and artisan ice-cream (Django), this lived-in area has it all.
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The oldest district in Athens is clustered around the northeastern slopes of the Acropolis. Though it can feel suffocatingly touristy in parts, Plaka is perfectly peaceful once you stray beyond the cheek-to-jowl souvenir shops on Adrianou Street. Peach-and-cream mansions house all sorts of offbeat, unsung museums dedicated to Folk Art, Tools or Musical Instruments (the latter next door to the excellent, old-time Platanos taverna). There are more obvious attractions too: the stunning ruins scattered around the Ancient Agora, and Anafiotika, a whitewashed hamlet hewn into the Acropolis rock. Wandering the car-free lanes, pausing to light a candle in the myriad Byzantine churches, is a delightful way to lose an afternoon.
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Once a working class district of tanneries, cobblers and tin workers, Psyrri has become a magnet for a more cool craft scene: you’ll find handmade brogues, backpacks fashioned from upcycled awnings, and even a type foundry. With its vintage shops and quirky bars like Tranzistor and Barrett, Protogenous Street is a good place to suss out the city’s alternative side. After dark, Psyrri’s narrow streets and paved squares throng with the young and restless. By day, there’s great antiquing, street art, snacking and spice shopping in and around the central food market on Athinas Street.
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In the foothills of leafy Mount Lycabettus, whose summit has sensational views across the city to the sea, Kolonaki is a genteel district of designer shops, art galleries and fancy restaurants. From fine jewellery (Lito, Fanourakis, Yannis Sergakis) to high fashion (Parthenis, Vassilis Zoulias), this is the place to invest in Greek design. For a more laidback take on Athenian cafe society, go for an ouzo-meze on Dexameni Square, a summer classic beside an outdoor cinema. Even the trio of outstanding museums along Vassilisis Sofias Avenue have tempting gift shops and charming cafés, where you can people-watch after admiring the folk art, antiquities and icons at the Benaki, Cycladic and Byzantine museums.
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With the recent advent of the Four Seasons, One&Only and Ace Hotels, the Athenian Riviera has acquired serious cachet. A 35-mile stretch of sandy bays, swanky restaurants and beach clubs, this is where Athenians come to play racquetball, windsurf and swim all year round. The cosmopolitan suburbs of Glyfada, Voula, Kavouri and Vouliagmeni are awash with resident shipowners and celebrities. Beyond Varkiza, the secret coves and seafood tavernas feel more like a Greek island. The former airport at Ellinikon is being transformed into a coastal playground for the very rich, with skyscrapers, shopping malls and marinas. But the area’s true landmark will always be the majestic temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion — pure magic at sunset.
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